Investing in a Banarasi saree is like buying a piece of fine art. However, with the market flooded with powerloom imitations and synthetic "art silk" fabrics, finding a genuine masterpiece can be challenging. For a saree lover, there is nothing more disappointing than paying for heritage and receiving a mass-produced replica.
At The Kashi Loom, we want you to be an informed shopper. Here are the five definitive tests to ensure the Banarasi saree you are eyeing is 100% authentic.
1. The Reverse Side Test (The Most Important)
The easiest way to identify a hand-woven Banarasi saree is to look at its "wrong" side.
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Handloom: In an authentic hand-woven saree (especially Kadwa or Phekwa weaves), you will see floats of silk or zari threads on the back. It looks slightly messy but organized, showing the human touch.
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Powerloom: The back of a machine-made saree is usually very smooth, almost identical to the front, because the machines cut the extra threads systematically.
2. Look for the "Plain Silk" Patch
Every authentic Banarasi saree has a distinct characteristic: a plain silk patch at the end of the saree (near the blouse piece). Usually, there are about 6 to 8 inches of plain silk that is left un-woven. If the design or the zari runs from the very beginning to the very end without this patch, it is likely a machine-made imitation
3. The Burn Test (For Fabric Purity)
If you want to check if the fabric is Pure Katan Silk or synthetic, the burn test is foolproof.
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The Process: Take a tiny thread from the fringe or the edge of the saree and light it.
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The Result: Pure silk smells like burning human hair. It burns slowly and leaves behind a crisp, black ash that turns into powder when touched. Synthetic silk will smell like burning plastic and form a hard, melted bead.
4. The Weight and Feel
Authentic Banarasi sarees are woven with real silk and metallic zari, giving them a significant weight. They feel substantial but not stiff.
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The Touch: A real silk saree is never "prickly." If the zari feels rough or scratches your skin, it is likely plastic-coated metallic thread rather than silver or gold-plated zari.
5. The GI Tag (Geographical Indication)
Varanasi’s handloom industry is protected by law. Always check if the seller provides a GI Tag. This is an official certification given to products originating from a specific region that follow traditional manufacturing methods. At The Kashi Loom, we take pride in our roots, ensuring every piece carries the mark of Banaras.
Why Authenticity Matters
A fake saree might look shiny initially, but it will lose its luster in a few months and the fabric will eventually tear. A real Banarasi saree, however, is a "Heirloom." It ages gracefully, and the silver/gold zari actually gains a beautiful antique patina over time.
Conclusion: Trust the Weaver
Don't be swayed by suspiciously low prices. Hand-weaving is a slow, rhythmic art that requires fair wages for the artisans. When you buy an authentic saree, you aren't just buying clothes; you are supporting a 500-year-old tradition.
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